Monday, January 4, 2010

Christmas in Bethlehem

Written by Michael:

Palestinian police dressed in all-black military-looking uniforms stand along the street. Occasionally sirens ring as multiple police cars escort tinted-windowed jeeps. "Salam," I say to the police officer too focused on the mission to respond.

One would have thought we were in the midst of a war zone, or maybe in an orwellian police-controlled state. But this was neither. This was Christmas. Most of those intimidating-looking police were simply there as traffic control and protection for the high-ranking religious figures spending this Christmas in Bethlehem. Maybe it was a show of control for the President Mahmoud Abbas who is seen as powerless by much of the world. I'm not really sure why there were so many police in such a random place (considering far fewer were in the main square).

We made our way for Manger Square, the city's center, where bands playing in front of the Church of Nativity gather massive crowds. Police close off the Old City's streets and foot-traffic floods the roads. Prices suddenly shoot up, as the sweet-cakes that costed 12 sheckle last week now costs 45 sheckle.

Little children run up to us carrying boxes trying to sell us whatever is inside (I think they forgot to open it). Dozens of vendors sell their goods on every street corner. This is far more lively than I have ever seen Bethlehem.

Both Muslims and Christians have turned out for the event. People bring along their children to enjoy the celebratory night filled with music, games, and shopping. I hear Christmas songs blasting from many of the resturants and stores as we walk down the road.

I spot a man dressed with all the steriotypical characteristics of a Muslim. At first glance, I assumed him to be an Imam until taking notice to the Church resting behind him. He tells us about life of Christians in Bethlehem, and reiterates the sentiment I have heard many times before: the conflict is 'political' and not 'religious.' Therefore, he asserts, Christians share the same views as their Muslim neighbors regarding the political standoff with Israel.

Before departing from the conversation, the priest invites us into his church and we have a glance around. He says that though Christians are a minority in Palestine, they play a prominant role in this society and coexist in peace side-by-side with their Muslim neighbors, though at times things can get rough. Many of my Muslim friends reiterate that many of their own friends are Christian.

Bethlehem is quite an example of coexistance. Year-round, pictures of the Virgin Mary and Jesus sit in the corner and on the walls of Old City shops. A cross can be seen towering above the city, and Churches still fill up for Christmas; all the while living as a minority in a Muslim-dominated Nation where the call to prayer blasts five times a day and religious sermons are amplified every friday throughout the country.

I wish others could experience Christmas here as well, thereby erasing many of the misconceptions that often tag along with Muslims, Arabs, and even more so, Palestinians.

12 comments:

  1. "The conflict is 'political' and not 'religious'." Would the leaders of Hamas agree? Are you denying that there are Islamic extremists who expressly base their extremism upon their understanding of the Koran and the Islamic faith?

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  2. *Just figured out how to post comments!*

    Larry, there are those motivated by religion that use their religion to further the goals that would exist with or without religion. For example, a secular or a religious person may agree with feeding the homeless. However, a religious person may pull out biblical and talmudic quotes to back the importance of it, while a secular person will take it from a purely humanist perspective. To prove that Hamas' stance towards Israel is not fully based on religion, the PFLP has essentially the same philosophy towards Israel, yet is a secular-communist party not driven by religion. I doubt many secularists would support Hebron settlements, yet there are completely secular Muslims that support Hamas. Of course, in regards to social/internal issues, they are religiously-motivated. But in regards to internal issues, I don't think we are in the proper seat to identify 'extremism'.

    In regards to the larger-Islamic world, the largest poll of Muslims taken worldwide showed that 93% condemned all attacks against civilians, and of the 7% who excused or condoned attacks against civilians, the majority did so on political rather than religious grounds.

    http://muslimmatters.org/2008/03/01/93-worlds-muslims-moderates-gallup-poll-didnt-believe-us-first-time-round/

    (The book and documentary 'What Do A Billion Muslims Really Believe') discusses this poll more in depth.

    -Michael

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  4. No one is denying the religious aspect of the struggle for a Palestinian state, but the struggle is backed for more reasons than just religion and by more people than just Muslims.

    The 85 year old Holocaust survivor on hunger strike for not being able to enter Gaza is just one example of that.

    http://www.ynetnews.com/articles/0,7340,L-3826475,00.html

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  5. Howard, I think your link proved my point. The PFLP is equally as extreme towards Israel. As the site you quoted notes: "These, in turn, are steps along the path of defeating the Zionist entity, liberating all of Palestine..." The Palestinians I know who do support Hamas also tend to support the PFLP. The overarching issue here is how to react towards Israel, and not whether a government is religious or secular based.

    Point: extremism is not fueled by religion, though religion may be used to back an extremist view. But to prove that Hamas is a result of religious extremism alone, one would have to prove that no secular groups exist with similar views.

    Michael

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  7. The rebirth of the Islamic caliphate is a goal for all Muslims so such a stand does not make Hamas special.

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  9. Extempers... If the goal of all Muslims is "the rebirth of the Islamic caliphate", then is a possible solution a two-state solution? Or will victory, to them, only be achieved in a one-State Islamic state?

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  11. I don't see why the desire for the Caliphate would ruin the chance for a two-state solution. I think history has proven that in many cases, the Caliphate coexisted peacefully with their neighboring countries. But whether or not a two-state solution has ever been possible is up for debate. I'm not too sure I believe in the two-state solution these days. I don't think being 'moderate' should be limited to the belief in a two state solution. To doubt the two-state solution as a viable option is not extreme. It's called practical and realistic. If we want to talk about 'extremism'- the extremists would be the ones who desire two separate states (i.e. segregation) for two different nationalities. There's no doubt in my mind that the extremists in America's past were those who said blacks and whites should be totally divided into two separate states. It seems to me that the most racist, the most extreme, and yet, one of the most unrealistic tasks (i.e. removing hundreds of thousands of settlers) has become the 'moderate' and mainstream view. The 'moderate' view should be one that calls for an end to segregation, racism, and division of the two populations.

    -Michael

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