Christmas in Bethlehem

Written by Michael:

Palestinian police dressed in all-black military-looking uniforms stand along the street. Occasionally sirens ring as multiple police cars escort tinted-windowed jeeps. "Salam," I say to the police officer too focused on the mission to respond.

One would have thought we were in the midst of a war zone, or maybe in an orwellian police-controlled state. But this was neither. This was Christmas. Most of those intimidating-looking police were simply there as traffic control and protection for the high-ranking religious figures spending this Christmas in Bethlehem. Maybe it was a show of control for the President Mahmoud Abbas who is seen as powerless by much of the world. I'm not really sure why there were so many police in such a random place (considering far fewer were in the main square).

We made our way for Manger Square, the city's center, where bands playing in front of the Church of Nativity gather massive crowds. Police close off the Old City's streets and foot-traffic floods the roads. Prices suddenly shoot up, as the sweet-cakes that costed 12 sheckle last week now costs 45 sheckle.

Little children run up to us carrying boxes trying to sell us whatever is inside (I think they forgot to open it). Dozens of vendors sell their goods on every street corner. This is far more lively than I have ever seen Bethlehem.

Both Muslims and Christians have turned out for the event. People bring along their children to enjoy the celebratory night filled with music, games, and shopping. I hear Christmas songs blasting from many of the resturants and stores as we walk down the road.

I spot a man dressed with all the steriotypical characteristics of a Muslim. At first glance, I assumed him to be an Imam until taking notice to the Church resting behind him. He tells us about life of Christians in Bethlehem, and reiterates the sentiment I have heard many times before: the conflict is 'political' and not 'religious.' Therefore, he asserts, Christians share the same views as their Muslim neighbors regarding the political standoff with Israel.

Before departing from the conversation, the priest invites us into his church and we have a glance around. He says that though Christians are a minority in Palestine, they play a prominant role in this society and coexist in peace side-by-side with their Muslim neighbors, though at times things can get rough. Many of my Muslim friends reiterate that many of their own friends are Christian.

Bethlehem is quite an example of coexistance. Year-round, pictures of the Virgin Mary and Jesus sit in the corner and on the walls of Old City shops. A cross can be seen towering above the city, and Churches still fill up for Christmas; all the while living as a minority in a Muslim-dominated Nation where the call to prayer blasts five times a day and religious sermons are amplified every friday throughout the country.

I wish others could experience Christmas here as well, thereby erasing many of the misconceptions that often tag along with Muslims, Arabs, and even more so, Palestinians.